Normandy

Normandy wakes slowly, mist hovering low, dew heavy in the fields and sunrays shining through the trees. We are fortified by a classic French breakfast: crispy baguette with butter and jams, flaky but chewy croissant, yoghurt, juice, fruit and coffee, and are enjoying the quiet of a 7.30 start to today's 90 km cycle. Our destination is Saint-Lo, via Vire.

Last night we stayed at a basic but charming hotel run by a friendly, enthusiastic couple. Dinner was delightful; three courses for E13 (AUD $17). We helped ourselves to the buffet for entree, I spotted the celeriac remoulade just like the version my dear friend Min taught me how to make twenty years ago and added a huge portion to my plate. Determined to get more vegetables into my system, I also piled on grated carrot, fresh beetroot, cornichons and salami (not a vegetable...). Main course was fish  fillet with green beans (the beans were much tastier than the fish!) and dessert was fromage blanc, that delightful white creamy/yoghurty fresh cheese made sweet with the addition of a large sprinkle of sugar. Yum. 

Yesterday we had moules frites for lunch near Mont St Michel after an easy 70km ride. Min also taught me the proper way to eat mussels many years ago: use an empty shell as pincers to prise them out.

Anyway, back to the riding. Some of the bike routes have actually been quiet back roads, some beside a river, but my favourite is the dark tunnels of canopied trees above a path which once felt the weight of locomotives. Reclaimed train lines are perfect for cycling. So peaceful. 

Today started well, zipping along at a cracking pace, then just as I'd burned off all that breakfast and needed a top-up, we arrived in Vire for morning tea. Unfortunately, the centre of town was at the top of a very large hill, so three-quarters of the way up, Beautiful Husband let me have a breather while he climbed to buy pastries and coca-cola to give me a sugar/caffeine hit, and a 5 cereal baguette and Normandy raw milk camembert for lunch. After getting a bit lost and ending up on very hilly D roads, (busy with large trucks steered by drivers who were very considerate to a hungry, puffing middle-aged woman) we sat in a bus shelter and enjoyed our dejeuner.

After a few more hills, I was flagging again, so BH popped into a boulangerie and returned with a cold, sweet coffee eclair. What a man!!!

Tonight, we eat Italian, as there is nothing else close to our hotel, and I am not getting on the bike again until tomorrow. All those carbs will come in handy.