Early Sunday morning and the rain falls softly as we make our way out of Dusseldorf. Our arrival yesterday was not pretty - we took a nasty turn around "not noice Neuss" and ended up in an industrial area, totally lost and confused. After finally finding civilisation and our hotel, we showered and washed out the lycra, then searched for beer. It was only 3.30 or so, but what the heck. Apparently you have to drink 'Altbier' in Dusseldorf, and Krolsch in Koln. Okey dokely. Dinner followed shortly after the beer/s. (Vegans and vegetarians proceed at your own risk.) The only offal I like is liver, so I ordered calf's liver with sage butter, mashed potatoes and sugared carrots. The liver was meltingly tender and I could feel my iron levels rising as I cleaned the plate. Steven chose the inelegant pork knuckle, a mighty meal for a mighty cyclist! So much crackling and pork fat on one plate! Sauerkraut and baked potatoes were hidden underneath. Only bones were left behind.
But it is another day, and I ruminate about salad as we amble along bitumen bike paths towards Koln. A punt takes us across river to Zons, a small medieval walled town with a bustling artisan market and a cafe serving waffles with warm cherries and cream to wet, chilly cyclists.
Dinner? A tasting plate for me of pork, smoked pork, speck and blood sausage served with mashed potatoes, and for Steven - soorbroode (marinated roast beef) with dumplings, apple sauce and sauerkraut. Washed down with Krolsch.
I will have some kind of green food tomorrow.
And what of Dutch food, I hear you ask? We quizzed a Dutch farmer and even he couldn't give a clear answer. He suggested meat served with potatoes mashed up with cabbage. In the week we were there, I ate several variations on salad with nuts and cheese. All delicious. Everything seemed to come with chips, but that's the way of the world these days, and they are close to Belgium after all.
Best meal in France? I would choose the oyster entree I had in Ouistreham. So fresh and so salty. I don't often eat oysters, as they're so expensive at home, so they were a real treat.
The worst...my own fault. We had two particularly long days in the saddle and on both occasions, our b and b was about 2km from the nearest town. My knees wouldn't allow me to get back on the bike so we dialled for pizza. Again, something we never would do at home, and they deliver beer and wine, so it was kind of a treat too!
Tomorrow, we'll be in Bad Breisig, a spa town, so maybe I'll be inspired to eat less indulgently.
But it is another day, and I ruminate about salad as we amble along bitumen bike paths towards Koln. A punt takes us across river to Zons, a small medieval walled town with a bustling artisan market and a cafe serving waffles with warm cherries and cream to wet, chilly cyclists.
Dinner? A tasting plate for me of pork, smoked pork, speck and blood sausage served with mashed potatoes, and for Steven - soorbroode (marinated roast beef) with dumplings, apple sauce and sauerkraut. Washed down with Krolsch.
I will have some kind of green food tomorrow.
And what of Dutch food, I hear you ask? We quizzed a Dutch farmer and even he couldn't give a clear answer. He suggested meat served with potatoes mashed up with cabbage. In the week we were there, I ate several variations on salad with nuts and cheese. All delicious. Everything seemed to come with chips, but that's the way of the world these days, and they are close to Belgium after all.
Best meal in France? I would choose the oyster entree I had in Ouistreham. So fresh and so salty. I don't often eat oysters, as they're so expensive at home, so they were a real treat.
The worst...my own fault. We had two particularly long days in the saddle and on both occasions, our b and b was about 2km from the nearest town. My knees wouldn't allow me to get back on the bike so we dialled for pizza. Again, something we never would do at home, and they deliver beer and wine, so it was kind of a treat too!
Tomorrow, we'll be in Bad Breisig, a spa town, so maybe I'll be inspired to eat less indulgently.
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