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Tuesday, June 8, 2010

The Threshing Machine


My beautiful husband has been calling me the above moniker for a few weeks now. Hmph.
He'd be beyond forgiveness save for the delightful idea of bringing me to Europe.
Two years ago, we were staying in Tuscany and took a drive to Volpaia, a tiny 13th Century village near Radda in Chianti. There was a bar and one restaurant, La Bottega. It had a terrace with a view of vineyards, rolling hills, forests and a stately house or two. We looked at the menu - roast pork with herbs for E6, handmade pasta with truffles for around the same price. We ate there a few times, and declared it one of our top two favourite restaurants in the world. And vowed to come back.
So, we invited our good friends The Wynns to come and rent a house in Volpaia for a week, and join us in eating our way through the menu. The house was a three storey terrace house, E88 a night for the four of us. We could eat out every night and stay within our budget. Each day we'd excitedly ask each other what we were going to have that night. The rabbit stew or the beef in chianti? Paul decided the wild boar stew was his favourite, Belinda liked the spinach ravioli with sage butter, but Steven and I couldn't make a firm decision (we loved it all).
One day, beautiful husband and I walked for two and a half hours along a dirt track between Volpaia and Panzano. Views of forests, pencil pines, wild boar (behind a fence, so obviously domesticated wild boar!), chianti pigs, vineyards, olive groves, more stately homes. We arrived in Panzano hungry, and discovered that the famous butcher I had read so much about was open for lunch with a choice of a E10 "Mac Dario" or E20 "Welcome". As soon as we walked in the door, we were handed a glass of wine and invited to try the nibbles on a table in front of the meat display (it is a real butcher shop!). I passed on the lard on toast, but the salami was fragrant with herbs, and we sprinkled perfumed salt and olive oil on bread. Seated upstairs, we ordered the Mac - a burger with rosemary potatoes, vegetables and bread. I stabbed my burger, and for a second wondered how chef had managed to get red wine inside....
Crunchy and hot on the outside, bloody on the inside. The wine was E3 for a quarter litre, and for dessert, delicious olive oil cake and mocha coffee for E2.
A few days later we went back and shared the Welcome. Four dishes - all cold. Steak tartare (strips not mince), shredded pork, pork roast with crackling and meatloaf with red pepper sauce. The meal was fantastic. Communal tables filled with excited and delighted Italians and tourists, all gobbling up huge amounts of meat and chatting to fellow diners about how they knew about this wonderful place.
It is a unique restaurant, and Dario is a genius.

2 comments:

  1. OMG this is too much... sounds like pure heaven. I have also eaten at a butcher/restaurant in Italy.. it´s a cool idea I´ve never seen anywhere else. But musn´t digress... more posts to read! Delightful!

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  2. It's too long since I checked in. This post is the yummiest thing I've eaten in weeks - and I only ate it inside my head! I soooooo wish I was there xxxxm

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